Day 38 -- May 8, 2003 -- Thursday

Bozzie Jane's father had what was being described as a mini-stroke, so I took her to the Lubbock International Airport for a flight to Dallas so she could be with him and help out. Her mom (Mimi) just had knee replacement surgery, so they could really use a helping hand right now.

Berlinda had a wonderful breakfast -- by far the best we've had. Special thanks to Alice, a friend of Berlinda's who heard we were coming and provided delicious homemade muffins. Tons of food, and there was no charge! We had a great time, but we always feel sad when we say goodbye to Steve and Berlinda.

Neesha helped Boz with her luggage. A neck problem from an accident on an airplane a year or so ago makes it impossible for Boz to carry much weight at all.

I didn't want to say anything to Bozzie Jane, but I couldn't hear out of my right ear this morning. It started bothering me yesterday, but it was completely closed today. I knew I couldn't go on until I saw a doctor. I thought it would be easy. I should have known better.

My first stop was at the first doctor's office I came to near the local hospital. The receptionist sent me to Dr. Thomas F. Neal, her Ear, Nose & Throat doctor. Five nice ladies (Kitty, Tami, Stephanie, Debra, and Dana) said their doctors were all booked up. They sent me to a doctor on the next street over -- Dr. John R. Marchbanks. The two nice ladies there (Debbie and Kay) advised me that Dr. Marchbanks was in surgery all day. They sent me to another doctor in the same building, but the receptionist for Dr. Medhabadi brushed me off and didn't even give me the time of day. Her name will not appear in the book, and I will not be sending her any beads. Back to the two nicest ladies (Debbie and Kay); they suggested that I just go to a walk-in medical clinic, and they gave me directions.

At Covenant Family Healthcare Center, Jeanie and Blanca assisted me out front. I filled out all the forms and waited in the lobby. So, eleven medical office ladies, five doctors, and several hours later, I got to see Dr. Poonjab Swooomaharooroomadan (I may not have that name just right). Dr. Swooomaharooroomadan didn't say much, but she took a big, long, cold silver thing and thrust it deep inside my right ear canal. She kept poking and scraping and prodding for the longest time. She finally emerged with something she seemed proud of. I couldn't understand her thick accent, but she may have called it a dirt clod embedded in the ear drum. Whatever it was, it was gone, and it was like a whole new world when I could hear again. I asked Dr. Swooomaharooroomadan if I could take her photo, but she refused. She was no fun at all. Dr. Steve Miller will win Best Doctor and Best Name for a Doctor in our Best & Worst Competition.

I visited the Buddy Holly statue and Buddy Holly Museum before I left town. The statue is very nice -- surrounded by the Lubbock Walk of Fame. Lubbock and West Texas have had a number of big musical stars. In addition to Buddy Holly, there were plaques for Waylon Jennings, Mac Davis, Jimmy Dean, Sonny Curtis, Tanya Tucker, Joe Ely (who attended Monterey High School in Lubbock at the same time I did), Roy Orbison, Bob Wills, Gatlin Brothers, Buddy Knox, Butch Hancock, Delbert McClinton, the Fireballs, and others. I just pray they never add the name of the lead singer for the Dixie Chicks who I am embarrassed to say is from Lubbock.

The Buddy Holly Center is very nice with a great sign out front with the world's largest pair of black horn-rimmed eyeglasses. I stopped at the Wind Power Conversion Center on the outskirts of town for a photo of a large clump of windmills. I met Mickey at a gas pump at a non-Texaco station, and I rolled on through Idalou, Lorenzo, and Ralls. Ralls is the "home of the Fighting Jackrabbits," so I tried to find a fighting jackrabbit for a photo, but I came up empty.

I passed through Cone, and then I stopped in Floydada, self-proclaimed Pumpkin Capital of the USA, for a little lunch. I started to eat at P.J.'s Fantastico Burritos, but the Dixie Dog caught me eye right next door. It was a small walk-up drive-thru kitchen in a box. The Dixie Dog advertised "a meal on a stick." I ordered two Dixie Dogs (corny dogs) and a large Coke. It was $2.39. The sweet lady who helped me was Glenda Kemp, the owner. There was a sign in the window that said "Close 2 - 4:30 until business gets better." Mrs. Kemp said it would be 10 to 11 minutes. 10 to 11 minutes later, folks were waving at me from inside the Dixie Dog. It wasn't fast food; they cooked those Dixie Dogs to order, and they were piping hot, fresh, and delicious. There was a free Strawberry Dum Dum in the bottom of my bag. I hoped business would get better. The next time you're in Floydada, please eat at Dixie Dog.

South Plains and Silverton before I reached Palo Duro Canyon. I spoke to Bozzie Jane and was so pleased to hear that her Dad (Papa) was doing okay -- not great, but was walking with the use of a walker and was very alert.

Just outside Silverton, I saw a sign for Strange Farms. I U-turned for a photo. I assume it is a farm owned by some people called Strange, but with Stanley Marsh 3 nearby in Amarillo, you never know.

I got a few glimpses of the Palo Duro Canyon. It's not the Grand Canyon or Big Bend, but it is a surprising sight to see in flat West Texas. I stopped for a photo at Lake MacKenzie, and I thought I was going to blow off the cliff; I don't know that I'd ever been out in a wind as strong. I met Donna and Tom from Illinois at one roadside picnic area. They just happened to be driving down this highway and had no idea that Palo Duro Canyon even existed, so they were quite pleasantly surprised by the scenery.

On Route 66 again about 3:30. I knew my plans for the day were shot as I had way too much ground to cover in Texas and Oklahoma, and the travel agent booked us for the night in Oklahoma City -- much further than I had intended to go in the first place. Nothing to do but press on.

The world's largest cross was a most impressive sight in Groom, Texas. I also saw the Leaning Water Tower of Texas there and the remnants of the 66 Courts Motel and service station. Groom also has a mural. Bless their hearts, it's about the worst mural I've ever seen, but you gotta admire their spirit.

In Alanreed, I saw the historic First Baptist Church with a big sign on the side saying "Truckers Welcome." I also saw the beautifully restored 66 Super Service Station.

McLean had a number of photo opps -- old buildings, the Devil's Rope (barbed wire) Museum, old service stations, an old theatre, and more.

When I hit Shamrock, I was blown away by the fabulously restored Conoco Tower Station and the U Drop Inn Cafe. I drove into town to see the green fire hydrants and to kiss the Blarney Stone and rub my beads on it so I can have eternal good luck.

I reached Oklahoma just before 5 pm. Texola is the borderline ghost town. Not much left there. Texola's slogan is a proud one just the same: "No place like Texola." I got a photo of the long-closed Longhorn Trading Post, a restaurant opened in the 30's. I could just barely make out the word "Longhorn" on the faded facade.

Erick, Oklahoma was just seven miles down Route 66 -- one of those towns that you'll miss if you blink. I kept my eyes wide open as I knew this was Roger Miller's hometown, and I wanted to see and photograph something Roger Miller-related. When the speed limit increased, I realized that I had failed. I started to drive on, but then I thought there HAS to be something with Roger Miller's name on it somewhere in Erick, so a U-turn gave me a second chance. I saw an old truck with a flag painted on the side, but no Roger Miller. Then I came to the only intersection in the town, and out of the corner of my eye I saw a big flag painted on the side of a building. It wasn't a particularly good painting, but it was an old building and a big flag, so I turned left, hopped out of the car with the engine running, walked out into the vacant lot, and snapped a photo.

As I turned to go back to the car, I came eyeball-to-eyeball with a man who looked like he had just stepped out of the movie "Deliverance." He had long frizzy hair, a big gaping hole in his mouth where his front tooth used to be, faded blue overalls, no shirt, and was barefoot. He kind of scared me. He was hollering something about "Welcome to the Redneck Capital of the World" and mediocre music, and I didn't know what I had gotten myself into. He wanted me to come into the old, dark City Meat Market building. There wasn't another human or car anywhere in sight. I told him I needed to turn off my car, which I did need to do, but I was buying time trying to figure out how I could get out of going into the City Meat Market with a guy who scared the bejeesus out of me a few moments before. He kept talking and waving me over, and I kept stalling. Then out of the meat market came a really sweet-looking lady with long gray hair, and the Deliverance guy calmed it down a notch or two and said, "Welcome to Erick, Oklahoma, redneck capital of the world and the home of legendary singer-songwriter, Roger 'King of the Road' Miller. You're at the Sandhills Curiosity Shop, formerly the City Meat Market, in the oldest brick building in downtown Erick, Oklahoma. My name is Harley, and this is my better-half Annabelle, and we are the Mediocre Music Makers."

Well, he said the secret word, Roger Miller, and I felt safe once I saw Annabelle. So I grabbed my camera and tape recorder, and into the City Meat Market I went. They showed me to a chair in the middle of the room, and the next thing I knew, Harley and Annabelle had guitars strapped on, and they were playing and singing to an audience of one. Harley is an excellent singer and a phenomenal guitar player. Annabelle plays well and has the sweet voice of an angel. I loved the music and immediately warmed to these Characters.

I spent two hours with Harley and Annabelle in the redneck capital of the world. I could have spent much longer.

In April 1986, Harley was sitting in the City Meat Market. He had no electricity and no water. He had an extension cord running across the alley to his home (he calls it the Redneck Castle, and noted that it was open to the public) to power a 40-watt light bulb that he used to read by. He was sitting there in an old rocking chair when a car pulled up and two women got out. They said they just wanted to get out to stretch their legs. Harley took an immediate shine to the younger of the women, and he said "Honey, you've come to the right place." Annabelle has been there ever since.

Harley spent 22 years on the road as a musician. In 1986, he had just gotten divorced from his fourth wife, and he was there "kind of recuperating." He notes that Erick, Oklahoma is probably the cheapest place in America to live. He was born there on Route 66. He was just hangin' out in 1986, and said they still do just that today. People come by, and they visit with them and "just try to add a little spice to their lives and ours, too."

Annabelle had a guitar when she first met Harley, and she asked if he knew anyone in town who could tune it. He tuned it. She asked how much she owed him, and he said "Nothing. Just play a song for me." She played and sang, and Harley backed her up on his guitar. Annabelle couldn't believe how good Harley was as a guitar player, and her mother set up a guitar lesson for her. She came back the next day for her lesson, and they just talked. Harley told her to go home and pack her bags, and she did. She went back to California, packed up, got on a plane, and Harley picked her up at the Oklahoma City Airport. They've been hangin' out in Erick, Oklahoma ever since.

Harley is an extremely talented guitarist, and Harley and Annabelle are very entertaining together. I asked why they don't go to a bigger place. I mean, there appeared to be just a few hundred people in Erick, Oklahoma, and hardly any cars ever drive through, and if they do, the chances of them turning off Route 66 to go down past the City Meat Market are slim. Harley replied: "We have so much fun with people right here that we don't see how it would be worth it to go anywhere else."

Harley told me they didn't have any money, and they didn't have any health insurance. Until they get sick, they figured they were sittin' on top of the world because when they don't have anyone else to entertain with their mediocre music program, they can just entertain each other, and it didn't cost a dime.

I asked Harley and Annabelle what lesson I should learn from them. Harley agreed that you can find love in the funniest of places and replied "Love is always just around the corner."

Annabelle said "Happiness doesn't come from all the things outside; it comes from inside."

Harley and Annabelle make money by entertaining groups. I have no idea how groups find out about them. They serve a Redneck Picnic on their pool table -- bologna sandwiches, pickles, chips, and soda pop. Folks come in, make a sandwich, grab a soda pop, and sit down and enjoy their "mediocre music." There is no charge. They work solely on faith and tips, and they said they'd never been disappointed.

Before I left, they gave me a bunch of names of people and places I needed to go during the rest of my Route 66 trip in Oklahoma. They invited me to spend the night at the Redneck Castle, but I had to move on, so I bought one of Annabelle's drawings (excellent artist, too) and two of their homemade tapes, dropped some cash into the tip jar, and said goodbye. I know I put more money in the jar because Harley told me they had never been disappointed; amazing how that made me grab a larger bill.

What interesting people and what an enjoyable two hours. I took a photo of the future site of the Roger Miller Museum, a shot of the Roger Miller Boulevard sign, the 100th Meridian Museum, and I was on my way.

The Owl Drug Store in Sayre was closed. They have a great old soda fountain there. The National Route 66 Museum in Elk City was also closed, but I got a few nice photos in Elk City.

There was very little light left as I drove through the little town of Canute. I noticed a big crowd of people at the local snow cone stand as I drove by on my way down the road to photograph of a couple of old motels. As I drove back toward the interstate, the folks at Ali's Snow Cone Stand were waving me over. I pulled in where I met Jim Kos, Julie Kos, Jason Kos, Carrie Kos, Allison Kos, Hannah Mallory, Eric Kos, and Darren Bunch. What a delightful group of people! I enjoyed one of Ali's special snow cones, and we talked and laughed and waved at everyone who drove by (at least a car or two over the next hour). The Kos family moved to Canute (population 670) from a big city in California five years ago; they'd just had enough of the hectic lifestyle in California. They couldn't be happier, and all say "Canute is the best."

Darren Bunch just idolizes cars, and he really liked the little white convertible. He finally got up the courage to ask if he could drive it. I told him the same thing I told the last person on the trip who asked: "It almost never hurts to ask," and I tossed him the key. When he finally came back, I had been prompted to ask if I could drive his car (a souped up Mustang GT). I had been told that Darren guards that car and has never let anyone drive it. The Kos gang was surprised when Darren said sure. He hopped in with me, and I drove off. He told me I could gun it because the town's only policeman was off duty. I gave it a little gas, but I told him I was afraid Vincent Passarelli might be watching.

Jim and Julie invited me to spend the night with the 9 Kos's, but I drove on to Oklahoma City where my guaranteed room was long since paid for. I really liked all the folks I met in Canute! My only regret was that I seemed to meet the nicest, most interesting people when Bozzie Jane wasn't with me.

As I drove into Oklahoma City, Bozzie Jane called to advise me that terrible tornadoes had hit Oklahoma City and buildings had been destroyed. It seemed darker than it should be on the horizon, but I never even saw a drop of rain. It had been 38 days now without rain on the road while we heard it had been pouring rain in Atlanta since we left town.

You don't have to live in a big city to be happy. In fact, the people I've met in small towns seem a lot happier than folks in the bigger cities. As Annabelle said "Happiness doesn't come from all the things outside; it comes from inside." We should work more on the inside.

The Daily Journal of Round America:

Each day, we collect our thoughts on a web page just like this. We drop in some of the photos from the day. Our goal with the Daily Journal is to write about the towns we visit, the sights we see, the people we meet, and the pie we eat. We write about where we are, where we've been, and where we are going, but we also make observations about what we've seen and done as well as about life in general.

You can follow our travels from the Daily Journal section of this web site. Other pages of interest include the running report of "vital statistics" on the Trip Scorecard, our nominations for the Best & Worst of the trip, as well as a rating of the pie we eat. If you'd like to see information for a specific state or town, click here, and then click on the state of interest and the full itinerary is shown.

Click here for Page 1 of the photos from Day 38 -- May 8, 2003

Click here for Page 2 of the photos from Day 38 --  May 8, 2003